Mohair - tips and other stuff

Mohair. The word is thought to have originated from the Arabic mukhayyar, which means choice (think "yummy!") With mohair, your piece instantly looks more elegant, more soft, more expensive. The "bloom" of the fiber, the halo, creates a beautiful, subtle softness that is hard to substitute with other fibers.

Mohair fiber comes from the angora goat. Do not confuse angora fiber with mohair, however. Angora comes from the angora rabbit; mohair comes from the angora goat. Confusing, I know.

Angora vs. Mohair

Angora rabbit vs. Angora goat

Take-home keys to knitting with mohair:

• Mohair has a beautiful halo, fluffing out to fill empty spaces. Consider using larger needles to help create this light look. The yarn should suggest a good needle size to start, but consider moving up in size. For this reason:
• It makes beautiful, soft lace projects.
• It will obscure the detail in your work, so use it for simpler projects. You can use it for more complex patterns, but be aware that details will be fuzzy or overlooked in the final project.
• The long fibers make it difficult to rip back your work! The tighter your work, the more difficult to rip back, or even tink back. Don't start a project in mohair that is too far beyond your abilities.
• A piece in 100% mohair can be heavy and stretch out, and may never return to its original size. That being said, it is difficult to find a yarn that is 100% mohair for this very reason! Look for wool or silk blends to give your work strength and elasticity (wool). Silk adds a luxurious sheen and is a particularly popular mix with mohair.
• Blocking? Mohair and silk blends will stay the same size as you block. You can't undo your blocking.
• There is a huge difference between kid mohair and regular mohair in terms of itchniness. If you are itch prone, make sure you choose wisely. See below for more fiber diameter information.

Fiber Size:

Kid mohair: comes from the first clip (the goat is about 6 months old). 23-30 microns.
Mohair: 25-45 microns. More body and luster than kid mohair.

If you're unsure of whether you or someone you are knitting or crocheting for can tolerate mohair, here is are some ideas you can try:

• can they tolerate regular wool? If not, either avoid mohair or try the kid mohair and hope for the best.
• if the person you are making the item for is available, try the softness test: hold the skein of yarn for 10-15 minutes, (even try it in your local yarn store!) If the person doesn't have any complaints, it's smooth sailing!

Mohair Fiber Facts:

• wrinkle resistant
• more compact and dense than wool, therefore is smoother and more slippery than wool.
• dyeing it? Good choice. It absorbs dyes well.
• fire resistant. Hopefully you never have to test this.

Check out some pictures from the Magical Mohair feature in Vogue Knitting!

Pattern: Troubled Waters scarf

Troubled Waters

a free knitting pattern, by Judy

On Facebook? http://www.facebook.com/knitNSD

On Ravelry? http://www.ravelry.com/designers/judy-bandsmer

 

 

"When you’re weary Feelin’ small When tears are in your eyes I will dry them all. I’m on your side when times get rough And friends just can’t be found.

Like a bridge over troubled water, I will lay me down. Like a bridge over troubled water, I will lay me down."            

 -  Paul Simon

This soft, sweet scarf is full of simplicity and turbulence. Because life has its ups and downs.
The ebb and flow of the simple rows and more complex rows has a lovely soothing rhythm to it.

Suitable for a novice knitter. It involves knitting, purling, a simple cable, and short rows – if you have never done cables or short rows before, this scarf is simple enough to learn on.

The particular yarn used is a limited edition homespun available on eBay*, but this pattern would be suitable for a DK or sport weight yarn, preferably with a good halo and subtle color variation. One skein should be enough! Pictured scarf used 120 yards.

Happy knitting! - Judy

Want to see more photos? Check out the Ravelry website for the pattern! (Ravelry has free membership and I highly recommend it for all us avid knitters or crocheters!)

MATERIALS: 

Yarn:

One skein (120 yards or more) of yarn; preferably DK or sport weight with a good halo and subtle color variation.

Needles:

4.5 mm (US size 7). Also tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Gauge:

10 cm x 10 cm = 20 stitches, 26 rows in stockinette stitch. Gauge is not strict, however it will affect the amount of yarn you use and the size of your finished scarf.

PATTERN:

Cast-on 20 stitches. I use the long-tail cast on for this scarf.
Set-up: Knit 2 rows.

Row 1 (RS): k8, p2, k10
Row 2 (WS): p10, k2, p8
Row 3: As Row 1
Row 4: As Row 2
Row 5: Place first 4 stitches onto a cable needle and hold to the back of your work. Knit the next 4 stitches, then knit the stitches, in order, from the cable needle. This should make a left-cross cable (the left side of the cable will be crossing over the right side of the cable). p2, k10.
Row 6: Work SHORT ROWS (see below).
Row 7: As Row 1
Row 8: As Row 2
Row 9: As Row 1
Row 10: As Row 2

Work Rows 1-10 a total of 24 times, or until desired length is almost reached, then work Rows 1-9.
Knit 2 rows.
Bind-off: *p2tog, place stitch just created back onto the left needle* repeat until only one stitch remains. Pull yarn through last stitch and cut, leaving 6 inch tail to weave in.
Blocking may not be necessary. If you do decide to block, block suitably for your yarn type and be careful not to block out the ruffles.
Weave in ends.
 
Short Rows:After Row 5, turn work and p8, then w&t (see Techniques). Knit to the end of the row (8 stitches). Turn work, p6, w&t. Knit 6. Turn work, purl 4, w&t. Knit 4. Turn work, p2. Do NOT w&t any more stitches during the short row section (see
NOTE below). Turn work, k2. Turn work, p4. Turn work, k4. Turn work, p6, picking up the wrap stitch as you go (see Techniques). Turn work, k6. Turn work, p8, picking up the wrap stitch. Turn work, k8. Turn work, p10, picking up the wrap stitch as you go, k2, p8.




NOTE: I found the yarn I used did not require wrap and turns during the second half of the short row section because the yarn’s large halo made them bulky and unnecessary. Depending on your yarn, you may wish to include wrap and turns at every turn. If after your first short row section you notice holes in your work you may wish to wrap and turn every time you turn your work in the middle of a row.

Techniques:

w&t = wrap and turn: bring yarn to back of work, slip the next stitch from the left needle to the right needle, bring yarn forward, return the slipped stitch back to the left hand needle. Turn work. (This prevents you from getting holes in your work.)

picking up w&t = when you get to the stitch that is wrapped, first pick up the wrap itself from front to back (bottom to top), then insert the needle as you normally would into the stitch on the left-hand needle. Knit these stitches together.

Need a tutorial on wrap and turns? Check out Purlbee's tutorial.

ABBREVIATIONS:
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
k = knit
p = purl
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
w&t = wrap and turn

TIPS FOR NOVICE KNITTERS




1. If you are not used to cables, you may find it useful to keep track of your rows to help you know when to work your cables, ie. when you get to Row 5.
2. If you find that the left side of your cable is loose, consider making the following modification: when you make your first purl stitch after your knit stiches, wrap the yarn in the opposite direction around your needle. This will tighten that stitch. On the opposite side, knit that stitch through the back loop. Do this on both the WS and the RS of the work.
3. For a tutorial on wrap and turns and picking up stitches, see Purlbee's tutorial.

 

© 2012 Judy Bandsmer

The copyright of this pattern remains with the author. Products made with this pattern may be sold for profit. Distributing this pattern or any part thereof in any manner is prohibited under copyright unless Judy Bandsmer has granted express written permission.

Pattern: Crashing Waves Scarf

Crashing Waves Scarf

a pattern by Judy Bandsmer

On Ravelry?    http://www.ravelry.com/designers/judy-bandsmer

On Facebook?      http://www.facebook.com/knitNSD

 

Free Pattern!

One size fits all.

 This pattern is suitable for the beginning knitter. All you need to be able to do is cast on, knit, purl, bind off, and count to three! The box-stitch pattern will soon become predictable as you knit.  

This scarf is very long and relatively thin. It easily wraps twice around the neck with good draping length left. You may wish to decrease the length, or widen the scarf. To do so is very easy (see below). This scarf is also reversible; the pattern is not exactly the same on both sides, but the sides are similar and both beautiful.

 The lattice fringe adds a fancy touch to the design. 

 Happy knitting!

- Judy

MATERIALS:

Yarn: Worsted weight 10 ply (302 m.; less for a shorter scarf. I would recommend at least 200 m, especially if you want to make a lattice fringe.) In the photo I used Bernat Berella 4 Heathers, Teal.

Needles: 5.0 mm (US size 8); crochet hook, approximately US size 8 (for fringe)
Gauge: no strict requirement.

ABBREVIATIONS:

k = knit

p = purl

WS = wrong side

RS = right side

 

PATTERN:

Cast on 25 stitches (or multiple of 8 + 1 to desired width). I use the long-tail cast-on.

Row 1 (WS): knit.

Rows 2 and 4 (RS):     k2, p2, * k1, p2, k3, p2, * k1, p2, k2. Repeat between * 2x or to desired width.

Rows 6 and 8 (RS):     k1, p2, k2, *k1, p2, k1, p2, k2,* k1, p2, k1. Repeat between * 2 x or to desired width.

Rows 3, 5, 7, and 9 (WS):    Knit or purl each stitch as it appears (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches). For example, row 3 would be p2, k2, p1, *k2, p3, k2, p1,* k2, p2.

Repeat Rows 2 through 9 until desired length is reached.

Knit 1 row.

Bind off knit-wise. 

 

NOTE: To create smooth edges on a scarf, I prefer to slip the first stitch of every row (slip knitwise if the first stitch is to be a knit stitch, or purlwise if the first stitch is to be a purl stitch).

 

LATTICE FRINGE:

Cut pieces of yarn 11 ½ inches long (2 ½ inches longer than a final fringe of 4 ½ inches when doubled over). Using 3 strands folded double, use crochet hook to pull loop of folded strands through bottom row of knitting, then pull all 6 strands through this loop. Knot tightly when strands are more or less at even length. Repeat for as many fringes as you like.

Next, divide each fringe in half. The 3 strands on the left will be knotted with half the strands of the fringe that neighbors it on the left; the 3 strands on the right will be knotted together with half the strands of the fringe that neighbors it on the right (see picture). Note that the two outside fringes will have the outermost 3 strands being tied into a knot by themselves (alternately, you can leave these unknotted). Knot tightly when you have arranged them evenly. NOTE: you may wish to use pins pushed into a stable surface, such as onto a blocking board, to assist you with making the lattice even.

Repeat the division of fringes again (3 strands going toward each side), and knot tightly once more. This leaves you with your final fringe. Trim the bottom edges.

 

Pattern: Dragon Scarf and Mitts

Dragon Scarf and Fingerless Mitts

a knitting pattern, by Judy

On Facebook? http://www.facebook.com/knitNSD

On Ravelry? http://www.ravelry.com/designers/judy-bandsmer

 "Anyway, you can't tame dragons, it's dangerous."           

-  Ron Weasley, Harry Potter Series by JK Rowling

 

What does one do with two different colored yarns of the same type?? Well, I got inspired by the Chinese art of creating balance and beauty out of opposites and high contrast. I'm so happy with the end result! Cool and fierce, methinks. And the alpaca makes it so warm...

 

The pattern: suitable for an intermediate knitter and a beginner lace knitter. The fingerless mitt pattern is written for knitting-in-the-round with either double-pointed needles or Magic Loop knitting. The set will be available for purchase on Ravelry within a week, or you can just buy the fingerless mitt pattern for a substantial discount. Enjoy the pictures, and enjoy the pattern!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can I make it less itchy?

Oh dear. You've made a beautiful, hand-knit garment and it's too itchy.
It happens.

To read more about itch and fiber sizes to avoid the mistake in the first place, take a look at my post Why am I itchy? BUT if the damage is already done, here are some tips which MAY help you get rid of some of that irritation.

To help decrease the itch of a garment that has already been made:

• Natural fibers: hand-wash your garment with a bit of baby shampoo. Rinse, then soak once or twice if necessary with some ordinary hair conditioner.
• Synthetic fibers: machine wash (gentle cycle) with fabric softener in the rinse.
• This works for me: wear a long-sleeve shirt or a turtleneck underneath. If you're giving the garment as a gift, you might consider giving a matching long-sleeve cotton shirt with it. Just in case.

Any other tips you've found??



Dragon Scarf and Mitts

Why am I itchy?! Fiber sizes...

Ah... itch. The bane of the knitter's gift-giving. Or maybe you're like me... sorrowfully wandering the aisles of beautiful yarn, pulling out skein after skein only to lay them all back down after seeing "wool" on the the label.

Not sure if you can wear wool? Merino? Mohair? Camel? Llama? Acrylic? Here is the itch test and some small tips to try and minimize the itch, or the "prickle factor."

The Itch Test

• if you're in the yarn store: pick the yarn you think you want, and walk around for 15 minutes drooling over all the other beautiful yarns you know you shouldn't buy. If, at the end of that 15 minutes, you don't feel any sensitivity, smile and buy the yarn :). If you're slightly less self-conscious than I am, put the yarn in the crook of your neck for a while.
• at home: you can try the 15 minutes-in-your-hands (or the crook of your neck) test as well. Also, try knitting a swatch and putting it against your skin, even rubbing it against your skin. No problems? Excellent! Knit away!

Beware...
... if you are looking at cashmere, llama, alpaca or camel, look for long protruding hair from the yarn. This can look beautifully textured, but especially if they have some firmness to them or are a slightly different color, they are likely "guard hairs" from the outer layers of these animal's fleeces - these will cause most people to itch. Avoid! (I like buying yarn from farmers' markets, but do be on your guard for those guard hairs here! I have seen them frequently. Commercial yarns generally have stricter standards.)

(If you've already finished the project and want to make it less itchy... take a look at my blog post on getting rid of the itch.)

The Technical Stuff

What causes itch? Each person's skin is different in the amount of nerve endings they have in their skin, how closely they are spaced, and how sensitive they are. While we can't SEE the difference in width between a wool fiber and a baby alpaca fiber, many people's skins can detect the difference.

Fiber "itch" is determined by micron size - a micron, a micrometer, is one one-millionth of a metre. (Divide one meter into a million sections, and you have a micron). Or, divide a millimeter into a thousand pieces. It's about 0.000039 inches. Smaller micron size = less itch.

Some of the common animal fibers and their micron sizes are:

• Angora (rabbit): 13-15 microns
• Cashmere: About 15 microns
• Alpaca: 15 microns and higher (baby alpaca is 20 - 22.9 microns; see my Knitting With Alpaca post for more divisions)
• Merino wool: About 17-24 microns
• Kid mohair (from young goats): 23-30 microns
• Mohair: 25-45 microns.
• Wool, not including merino: A huge variety here! You can get anywhere from 15-70 microns, generally store-bought commercial yarns are often around the 30 micron mark. Trust your hands and your neck and do an itch test if you're not sure. Lambswool will generally be on the finer (less itchy) side of things.

• Silk should not be itchy. If it is, there is something added to it that your skin is sensitive to, such as the dye or a chemical used in the processing.
• Plant fibers? Highly-commercialized plant fibers (cotton) are rarely itchy. Linen yarn can be very stiff when you buy it, but it softens up nicely with washing or vigorous blocking and shouldn't be itchy. Some hemp yarns can feel very scratchy, although the newer yarns are becoming more consumer- and wearer-friendly; trust your hand-test and word-of-mouth reports with hemp yarns and other more alternative plant fiber yarns.

Hope Shawl - linen

Yarns to keep you Cool... or Hot...

Now, I LIKE being warm. The warmer the better. I lived in Malaysia for a year, and the warm humidity made me feel like I was wrapped in a cozy blanket. I like cozy blankets.
Up here in Victoria BC, it doesn't reeeeeaally get very cold, although some people say the damp cold is worse than the prairie -30degrees (Celsius). I usually wear about four layers (plus a coat if I'm outside) during our mild winters.

However, we are not all built alike. In the dead of winter, my cousin still only puts on one layer, maybe a sweater. At all other times she generally resorts to a tank top. I get jealous, because my tank tops only come out in the summer. In direct sunlight. Sigh.

Making clothes out of yummy yarn must come with some thought for WARMTH. Is the person you are making the item for a fan of warmth and coziness, or does he get really sweaty and overheat easily? If you're not sure, and you're trying to keep your knitted goods a surprise, take a few days to analyze what he or she wears - sweaters, scarves, gloves, layers... or a button-up cotton shirt and a light coat? Once you know, here are some tips for picking the right yarns for your knitted items.

The Cool Stuff

• Plant fibers (cotton, linen, hemp) will pull heat away from the body, and help keep you cool. These are heavier yarns, though. So if you make a sweater purely out of these, especially if it is a chunky yarn, or if the sweater has fancy cables and other stitchwork, be aware that your finished product will be HEAVY.
• Consider getting a mix of cotton and wool, especially for a sweater... the wool will help give the piece more elastic, help it keep its structure, and the wool also absorbs and releases moisture = "breathable." So wools will help keep moisture and heat from being trapped against your body.
• Consider a cardigan... then you can wear it open if it's a bit too hot :)

The Warm Stuff

• Cashmere. Very warm. About 8 times more so than wool.
• Alpaca. Not quite as warm as cashmere. But still about 3 times warmer than wool.
• Acrylic and other synthetic fibers. These do NOT BREATHE. Even I, the Ice Woman of the West, will sweat in acrylic if I'm not in a cool environment. Be aware of this before you knit anything in a pure acrylic yarn. Personally, I stay away from such yarns at all cost. Do you have an acrylic blend with a natural fiber? A MUCH better idea.